Spicules in Skincare: The Truth Behind “Liquid Microneedling”

We’ve been loving all the recent chatter in the community about spicules. Clearly this one has sparked some curiosity (and maybe a few strong opinions 👀).

We’re seeing a lot of conversation in particular around the “liquid microneedling” claims that often come with these formulas, so we’ve pulled together a deeper dive for you over on the blog to unpack the science and the reality behind the trend.

But before you click away… let’s talk.

What’s your take on the continued rise of Korean beauty? From innovative textures to results driven formulas, it’s clearly shaping client expectations and influencing what’s landing in our treatment rooms and retail floors.

As always, the most valuable insights come from you, what you’re seeing, testing, and recommending every day.

Let’s get into it 💬

Let’s Talk About “Liquid Microneedling”

Spicules in Skincare

As industry professionals, we’re seeing more and more innovations positioned as bringing professional level results into daily homecare. One that’s generating a lot of conversation right now especially coming out of Korea is spicule technology, often referred to as “liquid microneedling.”

It’s an intriguing concept. And like many emerging trends, it sits somewhere between real innovation and oversimplification. So, let’s take a closer look, through a professional lens, at what spicules are, how they function in the skin, and how we should be thinking about them in practice.

What are spicules, and why are they suddenly everywhere?

Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures most commonly derived from marine sponges. If you were to look at a sponge at a microscopic level, these structures form part of its internal skeleton, giving it support and shape. They are typically composed of silica, which is what gives them their rigidity and needle-like form.

In skincare, these spicules are isolated, purified, and incorporated into formulations not as active ingredients themselves, but as a mechanical delivery system.

When applied to the skin, they embed into the outermost layers of the epidermis. This creates very small, temporary microchannels that can enhance the penetration of accompanying ingredients. At the same time, they stimulate the skin mechanically, which is why clients often describe that characteristic prickling or tingling sensation on application.

What’s important to understand is that this activity is superficial and self-limiting. The spicules do not penetrate deeply, and they are naturally shed as part of the skin’s desquamation process over the following 24–72 hours.

A quick note on vegan considerations

This is a question that’s coming up more frequently, and rightly so.

Because traditional spicules are derived from marine sponges, they are not inherently vegan. Sponges are living organisms, and even though the material is highly processed, it is still animal derived.

There are now some brands exploring synthetic or bioengineered alternatives designed to mimic the structure and function of natural spicules. These may be marketed as vegan friendly, but this is not the industry standard at this point.

If vegan formulation is a priority for your client or your business, it’s important to verify the source rather than relying on the term “spicule” alone.

How are they being used in formulations?

Spicules rarely appear on their own, they’re part of a broader formulation strategy. You’ll most often see them in serums, ampoules, creams, and the increasingly popular “reedle” or “shot” treatments coming out of Korean beauty.

What’s interesting is how they’re paired. You’ll often find them alongside ingredients like peptides, Centella Asiatica, PDRN, niacinamide, and advanced hydrators. The intention is clear: use the spicules to enhance delivery and allow those actives to perform more effectively.

In that sense, spicules are not the star of the formula, they’re the enabler.

Let’s talk about strength, because this is where it gets nuanced

One of the defining features of spicule technology, particularly in K-beauty, is the idea of graduated intensity. You may have seen products labeled with numbers: 100, 300, 700, even 2000.

These numbers generally relate to the concentration and density of spicules within the formula, and therefore the level of stimulation they create in the skin.

At lower levels, the experience is relatively mild, a light tingling sensation, often paired with hydration and radiance benefits. As the numbers increase, so does the intensity. The sensation becomes more pronounced, and the focus shifts toward more noticeable resurfacing and renewal.

What’s important here is that this isn’t just about “stronger is better.” It’s about appropriate use, skin condition, and barrier integrity. Without that context, it’s very easy to tip into over stimulation.

So, are they really “microneedling in a bottle”?

This is where we need to pause and recalibrate the conversation.

While the comparison is understandable, biology tells a different story.

Spicules operate within the upper layers of the epidermis, creating very shallow, temporary microchannels. Their depth of penetration is typically in the range of tens to low hundreds of microns. Professional microneedling, on the other hand, reaches into the dermis often between 0.5 mm and 2.5 mm, where it creates a controlled injury that triggers a wound healing cascade. This is what leads to collagen and elastin production.

Spicules simply do not reach that depth, and they do not initiate that level of biological response.

It is accurate to say that they cannot replace professional microneedling treatments.

What they can do is support the work we do in the treatment room, enhancing product penetration, improving surface texture, and helping to maintain results between services.

Where do they fit in with a professional skin health strategy?

This is where spicules become interesting, not as a replacement, but as a complement.

Used thoughtfully, they can elevate homecare routines, particularly for clients who are already engaged in professional treatments. They offer a way to maintain momentum, to enhance the efficacy of key ingredients, and to keep the skin looking refined and radiant between visits.

But they also require guidance.

Because they rely on mechanical stimulation, they are not suitable for every skin. Clients with sensitized skin, impaired barrier function, or conditions like rosacea may not tolerate them well. And as we’re seeing more frequently, layering them with other aggressive actives acids or retinoids can quickly lead to over exfoliation and inflammation.

This is where our role becomes critical. Not just recommending, but contextualizing.

Final thoughts

Spicules are a great example of where skincare is heading toward smarter delivery systems, more sensorial experiences, and increasingly sophisticated homecare.

But as always, innovation needs interpretation.

When we understand what’s really happening in the skin, where the technology works, and where it doesn’t, we’re able to use it in a way that truly benefits our clients.

And that’s ultimately the goal. Not just to follow trends, but to translate them into meaningful, results-driven skin health strategies.